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You don’t need to completely understand the technology, but you should know that you have options.

When purchasing a window, most homeowners think about the type of operation they want—casement, double hung, glider, etc. They also consider the color and maybe even how a window’s aesthetics complement the architectural style of their home. But often, very little consideration is given to the glass itself. Many people don’t even know they have an option of choosing one type of glass over another. Here is a helpful guide about the performance of glass, glass types, and the various glass options. Whether building a new home, remodeling, or considering replacement windows, this article will give you a better understanding about which window glass will be best for your home.

When Two Panes Are Better Than One 

While glass objects were being made as early as 2500 BC, glass windows did not become a standard feature in the average home until the 17th century. For the next 300 years, windows were constructed with a single pane of glass, which worked fine for letting in sunlight, providing views, and preventing wind and rain from entering a home, but one pane was not effective at keeping homes warm in the winter or cool in the summer. In the 1950s, residential glass manufacturers started combining two panes of glass separated by a small air space. The motionless air between the panes acted as an insulator and reduced the buildup of condensation in the winter. This new technique decreased the dependence on storm windows but was just the beginning of the improvements to come.

Low E Coatings Block Radiation

Radiation from the sun, in the form of infrared light, can shine through a window and heat up the objects inside a room, which is not what you want on a hot summer day. Also, warm objects themselves can emit heat radiation, which means a warm room can lose heat by radiating it right through the window glass to the outdoors, and that’s less than desirable on a cold winter night. Glass alone will not reduce the effects of radiant heat transfer, but low emissivity (Low E) coatings can.

Low E coatings are microscopically thin metal coatings added to the surface of window glass. They are designed to reflect radiant heat, which reduces heat gain in the summer and heat loss in the winter. Low E coatings can also block ultraviolet light (UV) produced by the sun. UV radiation can cause flooring, furniture, and other indoor objects to fade and deteriorate. Ultraviolet light is also the form of radiation produced by the sun that causes damage to our skin.

A Low E coating is hundreds of times thinner than a human hair, so it’s nearly invisible and only noticeable as a slight tint. They are often made out of silver because of that metal’s ability to reflect radiation without significantly altering visibility. Adding additional layers and switching which surface they are applied to will change the performance of the glass. There are different proprietary names for these coatings, but one way to distinguish one type of Low E glass from another is by how many coatings have been applied. Low E glass has one coating, Low E2 has two, and Low E3 has three.

Insulating Glass With Gas

The first examples of dual pane glass were created by physically welding two panes together around the perimeter. While an improvement over single pane glass, the process only allowed the two panes to be separated by a very small space, less than 1/8 inch. Glass manufacturers eventually discovered that they could achieve greater insulating values by separating the two panes by about 1/2 inch and filling the space with argon, an inert gas found in the air we breathe. This type of assembly is referred to as an insulating glass unit (IGU). Krypton is an even more effective insulating gas than argon and will achieve the same insulating values in a space smaller than 1/2 inch, but krypton is much more expensive to create, which is why argon remains the standard in insulating glass. While insulating glass helps thermal performance, indoor comfort levels are still mostly controlled by Low E coatings.

How Glass is Rated

Here are the three primary ways window and door glass is rated.

U-FACTOR

Simply put, U-factor measures how well a window keeps heat inside your home. It’s a measure of total heat flow through a window from room air to outside air. Lower numbers indicate greater insulating capabilities. It’s a particularly important measurement for climates with colder winters.

SOLAR-HEAT GAIN

If U-factor denotes how much heat leaves your home, the Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) measures how much radiant heat enters your home. All you really need to remember is: The lower the number, the less heat a window lets in.

Visible Transmittance

As you may have guessed, this measurement describes how clear the glass is. While Low E coatings are thin, each layer does reduce the visibility just a little. The higher the visible transmittance number, the clearer the glass.

GENERAL GUIDELINE
ZONEWINDOW
U-FACTORSHGC
NORTHERN≤ 0.30*Any
NORTH CENTRAL≤ 0.32≤ 0.40
SOUTH CENTRAL≤ 0.35≤ 0.30
SOUTHERN≤ 0.60≤ 0.27

Which Window Glass is Best for Your Area?

If you live in a colder climate the less heat you want escaping your home and the more radiant heat from the sun you want entering your home in the winter months, which means a lower U-Factor and higher SHGC.

If you live in a warmer climate, heat escaping your home is not as important as preventing the radiant heat from the sun from entering, which means a higher U-Factor and lower SHGC.

There are additional factors when considering Low E coatings. If you want to protect grandma’s family heirloom or a valuable art collection, you may want to add specific coatings that will reduce the harmful effects of UV radiation, even if you live in a cold climate. In far northern climates the sun will not shine directly through windows located on the north side of the building, so it may be unnecessary to install windows with a high SHGC to take advantage of the warm sun rays. Large shade trees can reduce the need for windows with a low SHGC. If perfectly clear glass is important to you, remember that the more coatings you apply to a window, the more tint it will have.

This is a lot of information to digest, but here’s the bottom line when it comes to glass performance: when building a new home or replacing windows in your existing home, make sure to have a conversation with the installation contractor or window dealer. Let them know which glass characteristics are most important to you.

*In northern climates it’s sort of a “pick your poison” when it comes to SHGC. If you choose a window with a low SHGC, you could benefit from the sun’s heat in the winter, but you also may have to manage the heat from the summer sun with shades, large overhangs, shade trees, etc.

Is Triple Pane Glass the Best Solution?

Windows with triple pane glass are more expensive. If you live anywhere but the coldest climates, the extra cost is unlikely to pay off in energy bill savings within the lifespan of the windows, especially if the rest of your home is poorly insulated. It’s not just the extra pane of glass that increases the cost. Adding a third pane increases the thickness and weight of an IGU, so window sashes, frames, and hardware need to be reconfigured to accommodate that extra size and weight.

All that said, an additional pane of glass creates an additional space which can be filled with argon and an additional surface in which to install another Low E coating. More insulation can provide an extra layer of comfort, especially in cold climates. Another advantage is that condensation is less likely to form on the inside of the glass when the temperatures dip far below freezing. Many people who live in a loud city or near an airport choose that extra layer of glass because windows with three panes will reduce more outdoor sounds that reach the inside of a home.

Tempered Glass is Tough

Tempered glass is considered “safety glass.” It’s manufactured in such a way that makes it up to four times stronger than standard glass. Also, if tempered glass does break, it shatters into tiny pieces which are much less likely to cause an injury than the large, sharp shards of falling glass that are generated when standard glass is broken.

Building codes often require a window be made with safety glass if it’s installed in a location where there is an increased risk that a resident could fall and collide with a window. Examples include areas where a window is installed close to the floor, in bathrooms near a tub or shower, and stairways. All glass doors and extremely large windows also require safety glass like tempered glass.

Laminated Glass Holds Together

If you live on a golf course and someone drives a ball into your bedroom window, chances are, the glass will break and fall into the room in large dangerous shards. If your bedroom window is fitted with tempered glass, the odds are greater that it will withstand the impact, but there’s still a chance it will break and spray small fragments of glass into the room. If that same ball hits a pane of laminated glass, the glass could still break, but if it does, the sharp fragments will stay intact inside the window sash.

Like tempered glass, laminated glass is considered “safety glass.” It’s constructed by sandwiching a thin, near-invisible sheet of plastic between two panes of glass. When a laminated glass pane is broken, the plastic holds all of the pieces together. In addition to preventing airborne glass, laminated glass is strong and cannot be cut with a standard glass cutter, so it offers an additional layer of security against forced entries. Another benefit of laminated glass is that it’s better at dampening loud sounds than non-laminated glass.

Impact-Resistant Glass Can Protect People and Property

Homes in many coastal regions need extra protection from high winds and flying debris generated from tropical storms and hurricanes. Impact-resistant glass, sometimes referred to as impact glass or hurricane glass, is stronger than standard safety glass. Impact-resistant glass is laminated but made with a thicker plastic inner layer and may contain thicker panes as well. Some impact-resisting glass units are assembled with both laminated and tempered glass.

Impact-resistant glass is tested by hurdling 2x4s at it at speeds near 35 mph and small steel balls at near 90 mph. It holds together amazingly well, especially when installed in a thick aluminum frame. And when the storm winds do blow, it’s important to have a window you can rely on, because if the window glass, sash, or frame should fail, a house in a hurricane can become pressurized, which could cause the walls to be pushed out and the entire roof to be blown off.

Decorative Glass

From the early days of glass making, it took a few thousand years to figure out how to make glass perfectly clear. Today, clear glass is not always what’s called for. Tinted, frosted, and obscured glass can be used on windows in bathrooms, in sidelights attached to a front door, or in any area in a home where both privacy and natural light are important. Textured glass can also add a touch of distinction on doors with glass panels.

Divided Lights

Up to the middle of the 19th century, large panes of glass were fragile and expensive to manufacture. In order to create large windows, muntin bars were used to join smaller individual panes. Today, expansive IGUs are stronger, less expensive to manufacture, and more energy efficient, so true muntin bars have largely been replaced with simulated divided lite (SDL) bars, which rest on the surface of the glass. Spacer bars can be added inside the glass between the SDL bars, which creates a more accurate replication of muntin bars. Grilles-between-the-glass (GBGs) are also available. As the name suggests, GBGs are decorative bars installed between the glass panes with no SDL bars on the surface. From the street, GBGs look like muntin bars, but because they live between the two layers of glass, the glass is easier to clean and maintain.

What About the Rest of the Window?

When it comes to performance, durability, and protection, glass is only one part of the equation. The type of material a window frame and sash is made out of matters, as does the craftsmanship that goes into building a window. Materials like fiberglass do not expand and contract or become distorted like some vinyl products. Window distortion can subject an IGU to uneven pressure, which can lead to a seal failure that allows the argon gas to escape. Without the argon, a window’s insulating properties are diminished. Broken seals can also cause condensation to form between the two panes, which may result in cloudy stains that can diminish a view.

A premier manufacturer of made-to-order wood, clad, fiberglass, and aluminum windows and doors, Marvin builds its principle of human-centered design into every product. With over 100 years of industry experience, Marvin has built a reputation for delivering the finest craftsmanship in windows and doors.

This article originally appeared on the Inspired by Marvin blog.

The use of a large scenic doors is a rising trend.  Here’s 5 Essential Tips for Scenic Door Upgrades for architects, builders, engineers, and homeowners.

When to Bring in the Engineer 

It’s important to understand that creating a door of that magnitude will reduce the structural capacity of the building. When you remove the building materials of the exterior walls and replace it with glass, it’s important to involve an engineer as soon as possible, to think about how to redistribute that load in a proper manner. 

The larger the opening, the more significant the redistribution that will need to take place. Once you have the size of the opening determined, and what the door will look like, it’s time to start asking the engineer how the building can be strengthened to accommodate that opening – and that’s a conversation that should take place at the onset of the project.

Determining the Best Scenic Door Design for Your Home

Homeowners have a choice between large sliding doors and bi-folding doors. Window and door companies, like Marvin, (link to the KCM Windows Page) have a number of large scenic door options.  When you have a beautiful view right outside your home, the tendency is to want to hide the door, so that you can keep more of the view. Pocketing doors become popular in these homes, for that reason. 

There are a few considerations to think of here. If you have a sliding door with no pocket, it’s important to make sure you have the space for the window to stack up against the wall. That can be a 10 to 12-inch sacrifice and can cut down on interior space. 

This is when a bi-fold door might become a more accommodating option. Bi-fold doors will stack outside, so there needs to be enough room there. Another thing to consider is that bi-fold doors are top hung, and weighted at the top. They typically have a pretty substantial head jamb, that may shorten the height of the door. Sliding doors are bottom weighted, so you can avoid that problem. 

3-Constructibility (Making Sure It’s Feasible) 

The constructability, or feasibility of a scenic door depends on the unique environment of the home. There are some important considerations to make to determine if a sliding glass door is an appropriate addition to your home. 

Bi-fold doors typically work with a 2×6 wall, and the header needs to be designed to carry roughly 7 pounds per square foot on the weight of the door, with a maximum 1/8 inch of deflection. That deflection becomes the enemy of the bi-fold door system, and will eventually cause problems. It’s important to make sure the additional load on the header is taken into consideration. 

The sliding glass door systems become continuously deeper as you add panels. It’s not uncommon to see jambs that reach 12-13 inches deep. If they are pocketing systems, you’ll need to add the thickness of the anterior pocketing wall into that 

Engineering – The Structural Considerations that Need to Be Made 

Some considerations need to be made as you choose between a sliding glass door or a bi-fold system. The load of the door can reach anywhere from 400 to 600 pounds in some cases, and with the bottom load of the sliding door, there’s a need to put locking inside to carry that weight. With a top-weighted bi-fold, the jamb will be larger to carry the load. 

There are also structural considerations with automation, and with screens. With automation, many times homeowners will want to conceal the motor, so that it doesn’t obstruct the view from the window. But that motor needs to remain in a position where it is still serviceable should maintenance be needed. With screens, stacking needs to be considered, and the ability to lay a seamless transition. Most homeowners are not going to want a sill that needs to be stepped over in order to go inside or outside. 

Understanding the Role of the Builder 

Builders are becoming more involved in the scenic door process, and they field many of the above questions. Builders should be involved as close to the beginning of the project as possible, so that everyone involved in the project can be on the same page. 

The builder’s general knowledge of the products involved is always immensely helpful. They need to have a general ability to think outside the box and to work with the engineer to implement the solutions to structural problems. When builders bring a strong attention to detail, it helps with the outcome of the project. 

Scenic Doors Enhance the Home

There is no question that scenic doors add to the value of the home, and enhance the homeowner’s living experience. They are a luxurious option that allows for a maximum level of natural light. But these tips should be taken into consideration for any scenic door project to ensure the quality of the installation, and that the homeowner can appreciate their new door for years to come.

If all this sounds a little overwhelming, we’d like to help. Our expert team can help you determine the best for your scenic doors. Click HERE to have one of our team members contact you.

Considering updating your windows as well? Check out Marvin bi-fold and sliding doors.

Updating your property with a front door style that complements your home’s exterior is a quick way to increase curb appeal, add value to your home, and even update the security of your home.

This article will review common front door styles used in remodeling and construction today. From wood, fiberglass, steel, aluminum, and glass, we’ll review the pros and cons of each style and clue you in on what you need to know before you purchase.

Front Door Styles

There are many front door styles to choose from, but according to DIY Network, many people are choosing to update their entry door choose from one of these trending door styles. 

Traditional

Traditional front doors are your standard entry doors and feature raised panels. There may be between 2 and 12 raised panels in a door. These doors may also feature glass inserts. Traditional doors are easily available, and many come pre-hung for easy installation.

Craftsman

Craftsman style doors have grown in popularity in recent years. Featuring sleek, straight lines, these doors look fantastic on many homes, from cottages to mountain retreats. Craftsman doors have a shaker-inspired look. They often have 2-3 panels, but are mostly solid. Adding windows for more light helps update the door even more, but may increase the price tag a bit as well. 

front door styles - craftsman

Modern 

Often looking like a door from a 1960s mid-century home, modern style doors are sleek and minimalistic. These contemporary door styles have increased in popularity with Millenials and other generations seeking a more modern, updated look that matches the minimalistic feel inside.

front door styles - modern

Rustic

Generally heavier, bulkier and made of solid wood, rustic doors convey a sense of “you’re not getting in unless I want you to”. 

Due to the weight, they are generally accompanied by heavy-duty hardware. You’ll find these rectangle or arched doors on beautiful cabins and older homes, when the owners want to instill a sense of history and steadfastness to the residence or building.

front door styles - Rustic

Front Door Materials 

Front door styles come in a variety of front door materials. Each has its own pros and cons, and some materials work better for some entry way door styles than others.

Wood

Wood doors are seen on a variety of homes and work with almost any front door style that you choose. Generally heavier, bulkier and made of solid wood, rustic doors convey a sense of “you’re not getting in unless I want you to”. Wood doors are seen on a variety of homes and work with almost any front door style that you choose.

Pros

1 – Versatile – works with any door styleSolid wood entry doors are easily customizable – from size, to shape, to adding windows and sidelights

2 – Typically these doors are heavy-duty and sturdy – making them harder to break into

3 – Can be painted or stainedVaries in price from economy priced to more expensive for more luxurious or highly sought after wood grain patterns

4 – Easy to repair scratchesSolid wood doors, with proper upkeep, can last 100 or more years

5 – Look great with sidelights

Cons

1 – Should be placed on a home where the front door entrance is in a shaded or protected area.

2 – Direct sunlight can fade the stain on wooden doors, but this is true of most materials.

3 – May shift, change, warp with fluctuating weather

Fiberglass

Fiberglass offers a low-maintenance, economy option that many homebuilders and homeowners enjoy. 

Pros

1 – Easy to install

2 – Have a longer warranty period than many wood or steel doors

3 – Work well in extreme climates

4 – Can have a wood-grain texture to mimic the feel of a wood door

5 – Resist weather, scratches, and dents

6 – Fiberglass doors last over 100 years, like wood doors

7 – Provide terrific insulating capability and may help lower heat or air loss

8 – Usually available pre-hung for easy installation.

Cons

1 – Cheaper fiberglass doors can be hollow and will not hold over over the long term. Solid fiberglass doors are more durable, and are also more costly.

Steel

One of the most energy-efficient doors available. 

Pros

1 – Many boast tighter-fitting frames and core insulation to increase energy efficiency

2 – Some steel entry door models with windows use double or triple-panel glass to reduce heat transfer

3 – Shrink-resistant, swell-resistant, and warp-resistant – this door does well in all climates

4 – Low-maintenance

5 – Can come pre-primed and ready to paint

6 – More insulation than wood doors

7 – Sturdy

Cons

1 – These doors can dent and require a handyman technique, including stripping the paint, to repair. 

2 – Do not pair with an aluminum storm door

Aluminum

Aluminum may not be the best choice for a front door on a residential property, as they often require custom orders, are pricey, and generally come with a 20-year warranty. 

Pros

1 – Baked on enamel finish

2 – Usually includes a 20-year warranty

Cons

1 – Aluminum door prices start around $600, the most expensive choice after solid wood

2 – Aluminum style doors do not rush, but they can pit, causing the powder coat finish to become damaged

Glass

Glass doors are an option if you want a lot of light and don’t need a lot of privacy.

Pros

1 – Allow a lot of natural light

2 – Can make a small space feel more open

Cons

1 – Do not naturally allow for privacy, but can be paired with blinds or curtains to help this

2 – Can be drafty – not the most energy-efficient choice in many areas, Energy Star classifies glass doors as a type of window.

There are a few classic colors that don’t go out of style, including white doors with a brick exterior or a more traditional  stained wood look. 

Front Door Color Ideas

Choosing a front door color that won’t immediately go out of style can be a consideration when updating your home’s exterior.

Your front door color scheme can be monochromatic, analogous, complementary, or even feature a triangle palette, depending on your tastes and color preferences. Have no idea what any of that means? 
Check out the graphic below from Thermatru.com to help you identify the color palette of your home’s exterior. 

Making Your Exterior Door Color Count

Want in on the latest trending colors? Check out this great post on exterior door colors by interior designer, Kylie M. Navy is a terrific color that can be steadfast through color trends, and classic, all at the same time.

Keep in mind, depending on the front door material you choose, you may need to paint some door materials more often than others. 
Make sure to choose a door color based on your home’s color palette and your lifestyle.

For example, have kids and pets?

You may want to stay away from white. White doors will showcase every muddy paw print and all your kids’ beloved fingerprints.

Have a farmhouse?

Farmhouse doors can be any color, but many people go with a classic shade of blue or teal, modeling looks found in the French countryside.

Curb Appeal

Updating your front door is a quick way to update the curb appeal of your home, without investing a lot. Curb appeal modifications, along with kitchen and bath updates, offer a high ROI on remodel projects when preparing to stage or sell a home.

If you are considering renting out your home or selling in the future, choosing a front door than can be easily painted may be a upsell for your tenant or homebuyer. 

Summary

There are many things to consider when choosing a new front door – from lifestyle (how busy is your life?), to door materials, to security, to your personal style, to your home’s color palette, to which doors can be easily painted, and yes, even price – all these things should be considered when you are looking to update your home and increase the curb appeal with your front door. 

If all that sounds a little overwhelming, we’d like to help. Our expert team can help you determine the best front door for your entry space. Click HERE to have one of our team members contact you.

Considering updating your windows as well? Check out our article: “10 Most Common Window Installation Mistakes” and avoid costly mistakes in your installation process. 

Avoid these mistakes and prevent expensive callbacks.

Brought to you by Marvin

10 Common Window Install Mistakes Photo

If you want to end up with an energy efficient, smooth operating, and long-lasting window, every step of the window installation process needs to be executed with the greatest attention to detail. Here are some of the most common window installation mistakes and some useful tips that will help you avoid them.

Wrong size rough opening
The rough opening requirements for a 2-x 3-foot window will vary depending on the manufacturer and the style of the window. A window can be built to fit almost any rough opening size, but many manufacturers build “standard” sizes which cost less than custom built windows.

Wrong size jambs
When ordering windows with the jambs attached, be sure to add to the width of the jambs if the finished surface of the interior walls is going to be plaster, tongue and groove, or any other material thicker than ½ inch drywall. You’ll also need to add to the width of a jamb when installing windows onto sheathing that is thicker than 7/16 of an inch.

Beveled sill wedge made from cedar siding. 10 Common Window Install Mistakes Photo - Kansas City Millwork

No back slope
The sill on a rough opening should be sloped so it can direct water that has penetrated the building envelope back to the outdoors. This can be accomplished by cutting the cripple studs at an angle or by adding a sill-wedge or sloped pan after the rough opening has been framed in. Don’t forget to add to the height of the rough opening to accommodate the thickness of a sill-wedge or sloped pan.

Poor flashing adherence
One common window installation mistake is not brushing away dust and debris and wiping off moisture from window sills and the WRB (weather-resistant barrier) to improve the adherence of flashing tapes and membranes. Some tapes and membranes won’t adhere in cold weather, so try to find a product that does or be sure to follow the manufacture’s specific cold-weather guidelines. Some cold-weather solutions will include adding primers prior to installing the flashing, so read the instructions beforehand so you’ll have all the necessary materials come installation day.

Securing nailing fins without checking window
A bent or angled nail can push or pull a window out of place. As you fasten the fins, check and recheck that the window continues to operate properly and that it remains centered, level, plumb, and square.

Not sealing the nailing fins
In addition to sealing underneath the nailing fins, fins that are not an integral part of the window unit need to be sealed to the frame. The best way to accomplish this is to roll the flashing tape/membrane over the fin and up onto the edge of the window frame.

No back dam A back dam on the sill will help prevent unwelcome water from reaching the wall cavity and the interior of the building. A back dam can be created with a strip of wood under the sill flashing, incorporated into a rigid sill pan. It should be installed after the window, bedding the strip in a thick bead of sealant to create a tight air seal.

Improperly installed head flashing
Rigid head flashing, sometimes referred to as drip cap, should be incorporated into the window flashing system, not installed after the fact. Check out this step-by-step video that demonstrates the process.

Misuse of spray foam
Filling the cavity around the perimeter of the window with expanding spray foam may bow wood jams or even distort a window frame. Use only a non-expanding foam sealant to create an air seal.

Try to avoid smearing foam and sealant on any of the finished parts of the window. It’s especially difficult to remove stains from unfinished wood. Keep an extra pair of gloves on hand for applying foam and sealant for window installation.

Not following the instructions
While all windows share similar installation procedures, most of them have unique requirements based on extensive laboratory and field testing. If you want to get the most out of every window you install and avoid expensive callbacks, it’s important to follow each of the manufacturer’s instructions down to the smallest detail.

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